Maui Makes You Feel At Home...Come In And Share Your Story

All photographs property of Britt-Marie Montemayor

Going to the island of Maui is like visiting family. They want you to be comfortable, and want to show you the best stuff about their town. Like family, all they ask is that you pick up after yourself and take some time to relax and feel the Maika'i (goodness). The first time I visited Maui was over 10 yrs ago and it left a lasting impression on me. Last October I returned with my husband, this was his first trip to Maui. We are adventurous and Maui seemed like the perfect island for us with a mixture of recreation, relaxation, and indulgence.

I believe the best way to experience a culture and enjoy a different place is to "go local." This concept means staying where the locals live and taking the time to experience how they see their slice of the world. Since we traveled to Australia and rented apartments on our journey, we have focused on finding rooms or apartments for rent in communities where people live, as opposed to the tourist hubs. This time we found a studio apartment for rent in a home in upcountry, Makawao.

Makawao is well known for its ranching history as Spanish Cowboys were brought to Hawaii to help create a beef industry out of the cattle which had taken over the pastures and had become wild. The Ranching industry grew and the Spanish Cowboys, called "Paniolos", married and prospered leaving their cultural impression on Makawao. For me, part of the charm of Hawaii, are the native roots mixed with non-native ethnic spice. Everyone who has settled here came from somewhere else, and found Hawaii feels like home, and they have all left their contribution to the house.

Being a native of California, and growing up close to the Mexican border with an ever increasing Latino American culture, I was surprised to find Makawao has the best Mexican restaurant I have ever eaten in, Polli's Mexican Restaurant. Polli's is also a transplant though. Started by Polli Contreras-Smith from Palm Springs, CA in 1981, and then sold to Tim Ellison, a transplant from the island of St. Thomas, Polli's is warm and inviting. Just look at the sign above the door.

Polli's is the local watering hole in Makawao and a bicycle tour stopping point. Their salsa is so good I could sit and eat just salsa for a whole meal, and I think I did one day. But don't stop at the salsa, try any dish and you won't be disappointed, and if you can find a seat at the bar you will get to listen in, or start up a conversation with the locals. The staff at Polli's make you feel at home. It only took minutes to feel like we knew our server, Rochelle, for years. She gave sass right back to my husband, she genuinely cared about what we liked and brought us more of our favorite tortilla chips, hot and fresh. We struck up conversation and shared family pics; we learned she has an adult daughter with severe autism. She remembered us the next time we came in, we appreciated her sense of humor, and matter-of-fact demeanor. Behind the bar, Kat is in charge and she made us feel at home sharing stories with us and introducing us to the locals. The locals have a seat at the bar, no really, they all sit at the bar almost everyday, it's like home to them. We heard stories of all sorts of people who moved here, one that stood out was a young man who moved to Maui from northern Washington, he was a logger; on Maui he also works cutting down trees, but says he gets paid a lot more to do it.

Part of loving Maui is letting your urban guard down, treating everyone as family, and engaging in "talk story," the tradition of telling your story or others' stories as a sort of verbal history or sometimes just gossip. Another cultural aspect of Maui is hitchhiking. If someone needs a ride, give them one,  you can take them part or all the way. Kindness pays off usually in a story. On our way upcountry from Paia one day, we picked up a woman and decided to drive her all the way to her destination, which was not far off the road from where we were heading, and really, where were we rushing to that we couldn't help her out. We were rewarded with her story. She shared how she has been raising two boys who have taken different paths, one a chef, the other a coconut harvester. She shared how sometimes you just have to "get out of your children's way," let them find their way. She also told us of some fantastic places to visit and took us on a road we otherwise would not have traveled to a beautiful gulch and garden labyrinth.

Mama's Fish House, Paia, Maui

Adding to the feeling of family on Maui, we have family history there as well. My grandparents, and parents have also spent time on Maui (and the other islands). A favorite spot, starting with my grandparents, is Mama's Fish House. We had to follow in the tradition and become 3rd generation patrons. Eating at Mama's was everything I imagined: seductive cocktails, delectable food, impeccable service...and then a tsunami warning. I've been on Maui during the regular testing of the tsunami system, but never during an actual warning. The waiter assured us that we had plenty of time to finish our meal and have dessert, since the actual wave was a few hours away and we were only staying about 10 minutes upcountry and out of the danger zone. This situation brought us a whole new experience of the Hawaiian family spirit.

When a tsunami is threatening, people in the evacuation zone pack up their cars and trucks with food, family, pets, and essentials (which could mean anything, including tv's). They head for higher ground, line the highways, and wait. What happens next is more like tailgating at an NFL game than an evacuation. A party atmosphere ensues, food gets grilled and shared, kids play, and like any good barbecue people start telling stories.

If you happen to live up-county, where we were staying, you don't evacuate, you host the evacuees. We headed back to our rental and like the locals, rushed the Makawao market for snacks and drinks. The homeowner we were renting from has an interesting story and some interesting friends, including some of the islands more famous residents from Makena. A bonus of this tsunami warning was the spirited chess game of these friends and their occasional a capella singing. We also listened to their stories of other tsunami warnings, and how it's more of a reason to party then to really worry. Adding to the uniqueness of our situation, part of the "charm" of this rental is the house (including our studio) does not have television, no cable, no satellite, just spotty internet. So instead of staying glued to the TV screen watching every update as the wave was approaching, we spent time listening and talking to each other. Definitely time well spent.

One of the greatest American Story-tellers, Mark Twain, spent time in Hawaii, and experienced first hand the talk story culture. His party rode horse-back around the island of Oahu. He was troubled that the trip took so long. The horses would not continuously ride, but required stopping at each house or hut. When he asked why, he was told, "the natives are such thorough-going gossips that they never pass a house without stopping to swap news," (Mark Twain, Roughing It, 1872, Chapter 77, Para. 1). Their horses had learned that this was part of the trip and simply did not know how to walk this route without the constant stopping. I highly recommend, Roughing It, Mark Twain's account of the sunrise at Haleakala on Maui is inspiring and amusing.

A large part of our Maui story involved snorkeling. All you need is snorkel, mask, and fins to enjoy the miles and miles of coastline, free of charge each day. On the west side of the island we snorkeled almost every beach from Napili in the north, to La Perouse Bay in the south. If you can find a place to park and access to the water you can snorkel there. La Perouse Bay was the most magical place. We parked at the end of a long road, as far as you can drive south on the western coast. Then we hiked about a mile through a lava field and historical village site. Standing at the walls of the dwellings, you can imagine what the ancient inhabitants story would have been. Then we walked further into a ticket of trees and found ourselves in a herd of goats, no doubt they belonged to the ranch property up above, and probably served as weed control. As we walked further we found a perfect path cut in between rocks that led to an easy entry to the crystal blue water. We were the only people around. It was our private paradise. We donned our equipment and slipped into the ocean. Together, my husband and I, were alone far from anyone else, no cell signal, no one else to bother or to help. As we swam out exploring, I saw some of the biggest fish I've ever encountered in the open ocean. At that moment in the blue water that spread far into darkness, I realized just how vulnerable I was. I also realized how fortunate I am to have a husband that will swim out with me to see the big fish and find ourselves so small.

The entry to our private aquarium, south of La Perouse Bay, Maui, Hawaii

I know why so many people who visit Maui stay there. We left there knowing we made new friends and family that would welcome us back anytime.
 
Everyone has a story, but part of the Hawaiian spirit is to listen to each others stories and don't judge each other by their history.  Like any family there is diversity: the crazy uncle, the loving grandmother, the nosy sister, but they all mean well. In all, the Hawaiian family provides a warm house, decadent food, lots of activities for every passion, and someone to listen and "talk story" with.

Visit Maui, but treat it as your home: don't break things, clean up after yourself, and bring your story to the table.

Sunset at Ulua Beach, Maui, Hawaii

Half Moon Bay Disappoints

Reputation's are not necessarily reliable. I've heard from "people" (it's always those mysterious people that cause these problems), that Half Moon Bay is a lovely place to visit. The views, the beach, the shopping in their little downtown area, all worth going to Half Moon Bay for. Well, maybe things have changed, because Half Moon Bay was disappointing.

Last Saturday a friend and I had a free day to explore, so a day trip was in order. When tossing up ideas we decided to make the drive to Half Moon Bay. The drive down Highway 1 is beautiful: twisting and turning, up and down the coast, with several vista points, and beaches to visit along the way. 

Gray Whale Cove State Beach, CA

We were beckoned to stop by a beautiful but brief view of a sunny cove. Gray Whale Cove State Beach pops up fast and if traffic allows a break, you can quickly (and I mean quickly), cut across the road into the parking lot. There are several hiking trails that head up into McNee Ranch State Park (Montara Mountain), but you really want to head to that beautiful sparkling beach. The sun was bright, and like fugitives we darted across the highway to the walking path to the beach. The beach was almost empty on this Saturday in, and there was plenty of room to sit and enjoy the waves. If the water on the coast wasn't so cold, you could even snorkel here, it looks so beautiful. Unfortunately, I hadn't planned on a cold ocean breeze and my clothing choice kept me from spending the day here. Word of warning, there are about 900 steps that take you down to the beach, and well, you have to climb those steps back up. So, if you are not up to a stair-climbing exercise, stay up top for your picnic. Once you have soaked up this lovely cove you can head on, but had I known what was awaiting I would have stayed, even without a sweatshirt. On a side note, Gray Whale Cove State Beach is technically a nude beach. Yup, I said it chilly and all, you can flaunt and see others flaunt, all the bits and pieces. Now, I did not see anyone without clothes, but since it's allowed, just know it could happen. But hey, we're all people, and if you live in San Francisco seeing naked strangers is nothing new. 

We stopped briefly to take in the view, but we were on a mission, headed for Half Moon Bay.

We were headed for Half Moon Bay, a charming coastal town, where people honeymoon, and shop. On the way we were delayed by terrible traffic a back-up of at least half a mile. What is this traffic about, I thought. A wreck? Are we just too close to town? Is a light out? And the answer is...Sam's. Sam's Chowder House has rave enough reviews that people are backed up a half mile trying to find a place to park in order to get in this place. Quickly I thought, maybe we should stop and check it out. In Nascar-pit-stop-style, I yanked the wheel and turned into the parking lot. Sam's doesn't look very big, and with the half-mile back up, and cars planted in every isle waiting for someone to leave, I decided we just didn't have time for chowder. A few days later I talked to close friends who said, Sam's is good food, but not mind blowing. Essentially, if you can get a spot by chance, go in and find a quick seat at the bar and enjoy the view, a warm bowl of chowder, and a drink before heading back on your adventure. 

Back on track...

According to the Half Moon Bay Visitor's website, "at the epicenter of Half Moon Bay is Main Street, a picturesque downtown filled with unique specialty stores, art galleries, local bookstores, restaurants and romantic inns." If this is the epicenter, the quake was very small. Don't get me wrong, I love the mile long stretches of cities that really define a neighborhood or culture. One of my favorite places is, and always will be 2nd Street in Belmont Shore, Long Beach, CA. So, with great anticipation we jockeyed for a parking spot on Main Street and headed out. Lunch was on our schedule, but not much else. 

We walked down the street and weren't heavily enticed to enter the shops. There was a yarn specialty store, a cd music store (which seemed outdated), and a gallery. Then we found our favorite place on Main Street, the Half Moon Bay Feed & Fuel Co. It's a specialty pet and farm supply store right there on Main Street, which is the original location they have operated out of since 1911. This is not just dog and cat catered, but with equestrian gear, a fabulous (yet small) cowboy hat selection, a variety of animals for sale (chickens included), and a good selection of gifts and trinkets, and supplies. Highlights of the Feed Store were a table covered in leather hides in various sizes and dyed various colors, (perfect for your next craft project and at a reasonable price), the cowboy hats, and the various vintage looking cow bells by the front door. If you're interested, they even have real "duster" style jackets from Australia, and full animal fur hides for decoration (or wear). 

Your's truly in her new favorite cowboy hat at Half Moon Bay Feed & Fuel Co.

We've been on this day adventure for a while now, and we have to find a place to eat. We were distracted by a cute little B&B, the Zaballa House. This historic home was restored and added to, creating a 20 room Bed and Breakfast. It's interestingly situated, surrounded by shops and a cafe, that were literally built around it. The Zaballa House is the center of a small quad of shops: an art gallery, home decor store, gift shop (with way too many bleached out shells), and a cafe. The cafe looked about half full; the menu looked very good with some specialty vegetarian items like a Black Bean Burger, and Vegetarian Lasagna. This is the place! We are having lunch! 

We entered with enthusiasm and were greeted half-heartedly and told to pick any table that is open. We seated ourselves, and perused the great looking menu. As we sat and took in our surroundings, it hit me...this place is too small to support this awesome menu. I wonder if their ingredients are fresh? After a long wait, the server took our order and when she offered up three kinds of french fries I asked, "do you make your french fries fresh? Or are they frozen?" Unfortunately she answered, "frozen." Now, not all frozen fries are terrible, but it is a sign that the quality of the food is probably not great and that my instincts were correct, this small shop cannot support the large diverse menu. The food came and confirmed my suspicion, frozen black bean burger, frozen fries, nothing to be admired here. At least the conversation was good. My friend and I decided that we needed to find some excellent food here in Half Moon Bay and looked up local restaurants on our phones. To my excitement there was a place called Rogue Chefs at the opposite end of the street, and that sounded great. Alas, we are off on our adventure again. On our way out I was disappointed to see that the restaurant had a write-up from the local health department "unsanitary practices"...yikes. This was not posted in view when we entered, had it been, I would have found another place to eat. Good sanitary practices are important to me, it shows that feeding people safely is important to the owner.


We headed down the street and took advantage of dropping into shops and Inns to check out the goods. Unfortunately, we were just disappointed. The bakery was a glorified donut shop and hidden from initial view was their write up from the local health department...yikes. I was attracted to a corner Saloon/Inn which seemed lively and had wonderful western decor. I loved the style and it looked historic, I had to check it out. We walked inside and looked around and spent almost 5 minutes purposely looking lost inorder to get someone to offer assistance. I looked for a brochure about the Inn and stood around the reception stand but no one even offered up a, "Be right with you..." San Benito House, we had to leave your fine looking establishment for lack of customer service. Too bad, it looked like an interesting place. Walking down the street we stepped into another restaurant, and found another write-up. What's the deal with lack of food safety compliance? 

We followed the Google Map to what was supposed to be Rogue Chefs and it's no longer there. That's it, we couldn't take anymore and decided to head back to the car.

Maybe Half Moon Bay is fantastic during the peak of summer, or just a fun trip for the Half Moon Bay Art & Pumpkin Festival (happening this weekend!) but we were just disappointed. On the other hand, I love an adventure with a good friend. We had plenty of time to talk, and sometimes that's better than the adventure. After all, good friends are harder to find than a new destination. 

San Diego's Old Town

By Britt-Marie Montemayor

San Diego, California is close enough to Los Angeles and Orange County for a weekend getaway, yet far enough that you can't be called to pick the kids up from the sleep over.

San Diego is well known for the array of amusement and animal parks, as well as its professional sporting venues and teams. What many travelers miss is the local feel and old California charm of San Diego's Old Town.

Old Town is just a few miles north of Downtown San Diego, but feels worlds away. This small section of the city is the best for family friendly daytime activities and adult nighttime imbibing. The historic areas in Old Town are an excellent educational experience for the whole family. In addition, the shopping, entertainment and dining options are just as good. You can even fit in a late night ghost tour of historic Old Town, and maybe you will have a ghostly experience as many have documented.

The best aspect of Old Town is it can be fully enjoyed by walking. None of the walking in Old Town is strenuous; it is also handicap accessible in almost all areas. Additionally, the historic square has plenty of beautiful areas for walkers to sit in shade or sun and rest.

If you enjoy people watching, plan some rest time as there is plenty of watching to do. This is a tourist destination, but most tourists come and go quickly. It is best to leisurely take in the sights and sounds; each visit to old town brings something new from the California past. 

Old Town San Diego has events almost every month. You can experience everything from folklorico, live music, dancing, to celebrations of literary masters, and celebrations of the dead. 

We visited Old Town for Twainfest and contributed to the Never-Ending Story, played some old games and marveled at the Blacksmith firing their anvils (check out the video). The story is that in the old west whenever there was a celebration, the local blacksmith's would bring their anvils together and stuff the holes with gun power and place one on top of the other with a crude fuse in between. It's risky and can lead to serious injury, but it's cowboy fireworks, and you can't beat that.  The result is a huge bang like a cannon and lot's of cheering!  

Old town dining makes for tough decisions as there are so many restaurants. Recently the

Cosmopolitan Hotel & Saloon reopened after 3 years of renovation, get in and enjoy what is being touted as some of the best cocktails in Old Town. The Saloon focuses on old style period drinks that will knock your socks off. If the Cosmopolitan is too upscale for your tastes, visit Café Coyote or Fred’s Mexican Café. Café Coyote is a staple of Old Town; make sure to pick up some fresh hand-made tortillas there in cinnamon, chocolate, strawberry or plain. If you live locally take some tortillas home and warm them on the grill to extend your fond memories of Old Town.

Before you leave San Diego make sure to catch at least one sunset at La Jolla cove. Just 5 minutes up the freeway from Old Town is the beautiful ocean side city of La Jolla. Don't be distracted by the posh shopping, art galleries, and incredible edibles get down to the shore and take in the scene. You'll be delighted by waves crashing on the shore, sea lions basking in the sun, and the best sunsets in the west. Bring a blanket, chair, or pull up a square of grass and relax. Don't forget your camera for stunning sunset pictures.

All Photos By Britt Montemayor. Protected Copyright © 2010