Sunday, September 16, 2012

More Than Just Wine, Chicken and Little League in Petaluma, CA


Other than all the hype over the baseball team from Petaluma taking 3rd in the Little League World Series, I knew nothing about the city located just 40 miles north of San Francisco. So, when invited for a birthday party I took advantage of the opportunity to learn more about this historic town through sight seeing and taking in some local cuisine.

Petaluma is almost 155 years old (chartered in 1858), and still hosts the largest collection of pre-1906 buildings. Petaluma also was the Chicken capital of the world, coining the city Chickaluma, but the chicken processing is long gone. Now Petaluma is a quaint, well preserved city providing rest, scenery, shopping, and food. If you like old buildings, you will recognize many of the structures in Petaluma as the city has been used heavily by the film industry. The oldest is the Petaluma Adobe, located just a few minutes outside downtown Petaluma, it is likely the least visited attraction. I enjoy the escape of visiting historic buildings an imagining what it would have been like to live there during a historic time. The Petaluma Adobe reminds me of a time when life seemed simpler but actually involved more complex family and social politics than we live in now. This was a time of servants, workers, and protocol.  


Walking Bridge Over Adobe Creek, Petaluma, CA

South-west view of the Petaluma Adobe





The grounds of the adobe offer a beautiful creek with tree covered walking bridge and picnic tables for enjoying some of the local cheese and wine you picked up along the way. The walk up to the adobe is lined by an impressive cactus wall defense. 






The photograph to the right is the Adobe, unfortunately the current building is only half of the original structure, yet it still boasts 10 large rooms used for everything from granary, livestock processing, cooking, dancing, to sleeping. Several times a year the Adobe holds a traditional Fandango celebration including music and traditional dance. 







Once inside, you can browse each room and see how they would have been used in the mid 1800's. I am never surprised at the amount of discomfort people lived in, and they did it as a standard, I'm sure there was complaining, but there wasn't much to be done about it. 


Vallejo Family Bedroom, Bed of Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo and Francisca Benicia Carrillo




The park also is home to one solitary burro, Sophie. I am amused at the the National Parks desire to showcase the historic working animals of the period by housing one burro. Apparently, there was a painted pony that died not too long ago, but has not been replaced. I asked the Park Ranger if the burro was nice and he exclaimed, "No! Donkey's are cantankerous animals!" Thank you Mr. Ranger for using the word cantankerous, it is lost in our vocabulary, and I like it. Anyway, we wandered over to the burro's enclosure and found her to be uninterested. She happily grazed on hay and only glanced up for a few pictures. She seemed nice to me, but don't chance it... Sophie's cantankerous... probably because she's lonely.


Sophie, the Adobe Burro. 



Floor to ceiling hides in the Leather Working Room



Downstairs in the Leather Working Room there is a disturbing amount of hides stacked floor to ceiling. Considering that there used to be more than 3000 sheep and 1000's of cattle on the ranch originally, and the livestock was primarily used for wool, tallow, and leather, it is a good example of the main economic activity of the rancho. On a gruesome note, the brochure states that because there was no way to preserve the meat, and there were so many cattle slaughtered each year for their more valuable hide and fat, "often the carcasses were left in the fields to rot," (2005, Petaluma State Historic Park, pg. 3, #5). Imagine that...




Petaluma is one of the few cities that survived the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and resultantly it's quaint downtown is a trip back in time. The film industry has taken advantage of the mild temperatures and historic buildings; some of the well known films include American Graffiti (1973), Basic Instinct (1992), and Phenomenon (1996), to name a few. In addition to the architecture, Petaluma's downtown is a blooming culinary center for the Petaluma Gap area. There are two restaurants in Downtown that are above a 25 rating on the Zagat review, Cucina Paradiso and Della Fattoria. On this occasion, I was not able to visit Della Fattoria, but I will on my next visit in a few weeks. 


Cucina Paradiso Ristorante, Petaluma, CA
Viva Cocolat and the view down Petaluma Blvd.
Cucino Paradiso is excellent! Serving Southern Italian cuisine, that is made primarily from scratch, from local natural/organic sources. The menu is balanced and includes seasonal specialties. They offer an excellent selection of local wines by the glass, along with a full bar. The prices are reasonable and considering the food quality, it is a good value. The one continuous complaint about Cucina Paradiso is the noise. The acoustics are terrible, and the later in the evening with a full dining room, the volume is quite loud. 
      After a light lunch at Cucina Paradiso, stroll a few doors down to Viva Cocolat, and enjoy a piece of chocolate confection before continuing to wander, and shop. Viva Cocolat offers a seating area, perfect for taking the time to enjoy your selection with coffee and conversation. The staff at Viva Cocolat were wonderful: friendly, warm, and quick. Just be careful, while sitting and chilling, you might get caught up in buying art from local artists, gifting chocolates, or other trinkets. For a heavier, decadent dessert, come back to Viva Cocolat on Friday or Saturday nights when they are open until 11pm for chocolate fondue. 



After strolling the shops, enjoying the river view and walks along the bridges, you might want a quick casual refresher before enjoying an excellent dinner, and for this, I recommend the quirky McNear's Saloon & Mystic Theater. McNear's is perfect for guys that need to let loose after a day of refinement and wine tasting with their wives. Let the ladies enjoy fondue or drinks elsewhere while you rework your manly grunt at McNear's. 

McNear's Dining House, Saloon, and Mystic Theater

McNear's menu is full, really full of options, which always concerns me. How can a restaurant be really good with any item if they have to stretch themselves thin with providing ingredients for hundred's of items. How long have they been freezing and frying the same pre-made dish? McNear's does the job though; the food was good and it provides for good people watching as well.  

Interior of McNear's Dining House & Saloon
Interior of McNear's Dining House & Saloon


I was really excited to visit Central Market, a highly rated and well reviewed restaurant on Petaluma Blvd. I was saddened that even though their posted hours show 5:00pm opening, they didn't open at 5:00. Four of us, two parties of two, waited out side, seen by the staff, and ignored. We checked back in a few minutes and still, although the staff seemed ready inside, the door stayed locked. Well, Central Market, this is no way to get customers. Next time you aren't going to open for business, put a sign on the door, letting the people who want to give you money know. 

Sign for the Central Market Restaurant (I wish they would have opened on time).

Petaluma get's a "thumbs-up" from me. I will come back, and recommend that you visit this quaint city, just north of San Francisco, on your next visit to the Bay Area. There is too much to see and enjoy on one day here, but a day trip is enough to enjoy and not be disappointed. Visit Petaluma, I think you'll enjoy it too. 



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